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Lie-Nielsen No.10-1/4 Bench Rabbet Plane
Lie-Nielsen No.10-1/4 Bench Rabbet Plane

Our Price: $375.00

Quantity in Stock:1
Availability:: Usually Ships in 24 Hours
Product Code: A440

Description Tool Care

No. 10-1/4 Bench Rabbet Plane

Also known as a Carriage Maker's or Jack Rabbet Plane, this is the largest rabbet plane made. Based on the Stanley 10¼, which went out of production in the mid-1940s, we modified the design to fit the Bedrock format. Adjustable side nickers make clean, cross-grain cuts. Both handle and knob can tilt left or right to give better access and control in tight corners.

  • 12-3/4" long
  • Blade is 2-1/8" wide x .130" thick.
  • Iron body only, 5 lbs.


Bench Rabbet Plane

A Bench Rabbet Plane is very handy for working large rabbets and tenons, while also doubling as a Jack Plane. The Lie-Nielsen Bench Rabbet Plane is based on the Stanley Bedrock-type planes. Bedrocks were Stanley’s top line of Bench Planes, heavier and better made than the standard. In addition, the construction of the frog is unique — it features a fully machined fit between frog and body, adjustable from the rear without having to remove the blade and cap. This allows you to easily change the mouth setting from a coarse to a fine cut for difficult woods or fine smoothing passes. For heavy cuts, adjust the frog back so the blade rests directly on the plane body.


All Bench Plane blades are bedded at 45° with the bevel down.

Blade Sharpening:

Your Lie-Nielsen Bench Plane is ready to cut wood out of the box. The blade is ground sharp at a 25° bevel. A secondary bevel of up to 5 degrees helps achieve a razor edge quickly. This also improves edge life in hardwoods. For more information on advanced sharpening we suggest David Charlesworth’s DVD Hand Tool Techniques Part 1: Plane Sharpening.

Mouth Adjustment:

To adjust the mouth opening, loosen the two locking screws at the back of the frog. Then turn the middle adjusting screw. Observe the opening in front of the blade. When it is correct, set the locking screws again.

Blade Adjustment:

Removing and re-installing the blade can be tricky. The easiest method is to remove the cap screw first. To advance the blade, turn the adjuster screw clockwise. It is always a good idea to finish adjusting the blade with a forward adjustment to take up backlash and prevent the blade from moving. In order to be able to adjust the blade easily, do not overtighten the lever cap screw.

The blade is about .005" wider than the body. Align the edge of the blade with the side of the body that you want it flush with (laying the tool on its side helps to do this quickly and accurately) or grind a little off the side of the blade to make it flush with both sides if you want.


Nickers cut cross grain fibers first to give a clean shoulder when rabbeting across the grain. Adjust the nicker so it is a little deeper than your depth of cut. Retract the nicker when it is not needed. The nicker screw thread is 8-32.

Tilting Handles:

Loosen the nut on top of the knob and handle to tilt to one side or the other. Tighten, but do not overtighten, nuts. Lubricate the pivot bar occasionally.

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